Paris fashion history

by Sunday, November 15, 2015

Dopo ciò che è capitato ieri notte mi sembrava giusto dedicare uno dei miei post a Parigi.

Ma stasera non voglio parlare di quello che è successo poco fa. No. Questo blog non è nato per discutere le religioni o le scelte politiche; tratta ben altri temi.

Stasera voglio parlarvi di un’altra faccia di Parigi: la città affascinante, forte, melodrammatica nei suoi giorni piovosi, a volte grigia e cupa ma sempre piena di vita. La città di 2 milioni di anime, la città della meravigliosa Tour Eiffel… e la capitale della moda nel mondo.

Paris, Paris très cool! Très a la mode!

Dice chiunque l’abbia mai visitata. Chiunque abbia mai dato anche una sola lettura veloce alla sua storia.

Perché la storia della moda parigina ha inizio tanto, tanto tempo fa. Si dice infatti che tutto abbia avuto inizio nel diciasettesimo secolo, quando la Francia sotto il regno di Luigi XIV cominciò ad essere associata all’idea della moda e dello stile.

Il Re Sole amava infatti essere al centro di tutte le cose meravigliose che c’erano nel mondo e per questo motivo fece di questa sua passione un vero e proprio business così che l’industria degli articoli di lusso in Francia divenne un bene di prima necessità per i reali.

La creazione, nel 1670, dei giornali di moda, spostò la Francia sotto tutti i riflettori e rese accessibili a tutti nozioni sulle differenti stagioni della moda e le varie tendenze.

In quegli anni venne introdotta anche la prima tendenza. Ad introdurla fu proprio il Re Sole, che a causa della sua calvizia, decise di contrastare ciò che gli stava accadendo, indossando vistose parrucche: ricce e voluminose. Da lui presero spunto gli altri nobili, e pian piano molti si adeguarono seguendo la tendenza.

Ma non tutti potevano permettersi questo lusso. Per questo all’alba del nuovo secolo la tendenza mutò da sfarzo  a semplicità. A favore della nuova tendenza nacquero i magazzini, i quali diedero un grande impulso alla moda parigina.

In quegli anni in Francia la borghesia  sostituì i cortigiani, e mano a mano la moda francese trovò la sua strada nella società.

Poco tempo dopo nacque anche il couturier (designer). Si trattò ovviamente di una specie di progettista, non di un vero stilista. Fatto sta che un uomo dall’Inghilterra chiamato Charles Frederick Worth fu più o meno accettato nel vernacolo popolare come l’uomo che dominò tutto il settore.

Egli fu il primo ad essere considerato un designer e non solo un sarto: inventò la sfilata e il marchio di moda come uno status symbol.

Riscosse molto successo e il suo lavoro venne rispettato da tutti, infatti, guadagnò l’ultima parola su tutto ciò che i loro clienti avrebbero dovuto indossare, indipendentemente dalla loro opinione.

Worth ebbe anche l’idea di fare uno schizzo del disegno prima di produrre un  campione costoso.

Per le sue idee, all’epoca venne visto come un genio.

Alla fine del diciannovesimo secolo e all’ inzio del ventesimo, l’ industria della moda parigina esplose: nel 1892 venne fondato Vogue e successivamente anche alcune case di moda da Jacques Doucet e Madeline Vionnet.

Sotto l’influenza dell’ Art Noveau e orientale, le donne abbandonarono finalmente corsetti e pesanti sottogonne per entrare in abiti fluidi e dal taglio corto.

Nel 1925 venne messa sotto i riflettori la figura di uno dei personaggi più importanti della storia della moda: la coraggiosa Coco Chanel. La stilista Coco rivoluzionò profondamente la moda parigina e il mondo intero.

Nel 1947 Christian Dior presento il suo “New Look” deliziando la clientela femminile del dopoguerra  con i suoi look femminili caratterizzati da ampie gonne e busti maestosi.

Ma nel 1960 ci fu un nuovo cambio di rotta, e al New Look di Dior venne favorito uno stile più casual, come quello visto a Londra.

Nel 1966, Yves Saint Laurent portò ancora una volta Parigi sotto i  riflettori  con il suo un prêt-à-porter (ready to wear”) la linea che rese la moda accessibile alle masse.

Infatti, anche se Paco Rabanne e Pierre Cardin spinsero la moda verso il futuro, creando forme audaci, dovettero sempre restare  sotto l’ombra di YSL, che senza dubbio fu il re della seconda metà del secolo.

YSL aprì la strada al vestito smoking per le donne e sedusse tutti con il suo stile androgino e chic.

Dal 1960 Parigi concorre con Londra, New York, Milano e Tokyo per il titolo di capitale della moda, e ogni anno attira milioni di fashion guru, stilisti e amanti della moda alle sue fashion week.

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A woman poses in front of the Eiffel tower as she waits for the start of the Rick Owens 2015 Spring/Summer ready-to-wear collection fashion show, on September 25, 2014 in Paris. AFP PHOTO / JOEL SAGET (Photo credit should read JOEL SAGET/AFP/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 25: (EDITORS NOTE: In-Camera multiple exposure mode was used to create this image and then processed using digital filters) A model walks the runway the during Damir Doma show as part of Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2014 on September 25, 2013 in Paris, France. (Photo by Gareth Cattermole/Getty Images)

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Con questo post mando tutta la mia solidarietà alla magnifica città che è Parigi; perché sorvolando sul perché e sul come questa strage sia potuta accadere, io credo che nessuna città, regione, paese o continente che sia si meriti tutto ciò. La violenza e la prepotenza sono armi che andrebbero bandite. Non è facendo la guerra che ci si fa rispettare. Ognuno è libero di esprimere la propria opinione e di credere in quello che vuole, a patto di non nuocere gli altri o le loro idee. In questo mondo ci vorrebbe un po’ più di rispetto e meno egoismo. Siamo tutti uguali e tutti diversi. Siamo fratelli con idee differenti, ma non per questo dobbiamo odiarci l’un l’altro. Ci facciamo chiamare Homo Sapiens Sapiens, per distinguerci dal ramo evolutivo di tutti gli altri animali, ma a volte sembra che ci siamo fermati ad uno stadio inferiore al loro, che almeno sono in grado di vivere pacificamente tra individui di una stessa specie…

epa05025887 A girl holds a peace sign with the Eiffel Tower as hundreds of people gathered in front of the French Consulate during a vigil for the victims of the deadly Paris attacks, in Los Angeles, California, USA, 14 November 2015. At least 129 people have been killed in a series of attacks in Paris on 13 November, according to French officials. EPA/MIKE NELSON

Chiara C.


(ENG)

 After what happened last night, it seems fair to dedicate one of my posts to Paris.
But tonight I won’t to talk about what has just happened. No. This blog wasn’t created to discuss religion or political choices; it has very different topics.
Tonight I want to talk of another face of Paris: the charming, strong city, melodramatic in its rainy days, sometimes gray and gloomy but always full of life. The city of 2 million souls, the city of the wonderful Eiffel Tower and the capital of fashion in the world.
Paris, Paris très cool! Très a la mode!

Says anyone who has ever visited. Anyone who has never given even one quick read to his story.

Because the history of Parisian fashion began long, long time ago. It is said that all began in the seventeenth century, when France under the reign of Louis XIV began to be associated with the idea of fashion and style.

The Sun King loved in fact be at the center of all the wonderful things that were in the world and because of this he made his hobby into a real business so that the industry of luxury goods in France became a basic necessity for real.

The creation, in 1670, of fashion magazines, moved France under the spotlight and made accessible to all notions about the different fashion seasons and the various trends.

In those years was also introduced the first trend. Who introduced it was the Sun King, who, because of his baldness, decided to counter what was happening to him, wearing gaudy wigs: curly and voluminous. The other nobles took inspiration from him, and gradually many followed the trend.

But not everyone could afford this luxury. For this reason, at the dawn of the new century, the trend changed from glitz to simplicity. In favor of the new trend was born the stores, which gave a big boost to the Parisian fashion.

In those years in France the bourgeoisie replaced the courtiers, and gradually the French fashion found its way into society.

A short time later was also born couturier (designers). It was obviously a species of the designer, not of a real stylist. The fact is that a man from England named Charles Frederick Worth was more or less accepted in the popular vernacular as the man who dominated the entire industry.

He was the first to be considered not only a tailor but a designer: he invented the fashion show and the fashion brand as a status symbol.

He had great success and his work was respected by all, in fact, he earned the last word on everything that their customers were supposed to wear, regardless of their opinion.

Worth also had the idea to make a sketch of the design before producing a sample expensive.

For his ideas at the time he was seen as a Genius.

In the late nineteenth century and early twentieth century, the ‘Parisian fashion industry exploded: in 1892 was founded Vogue and later some fashion houses like the ones by Jacques Doucet and Madeline Vionnet.

Under the influence of the ‘Art Nouveau and the oriental, women finally abandoned corsets and heavy petticoats to get in flowing and short cut dresses.

In 1925 was put under the spotlight the figure of one of the most important women in the history of fashion: the courageous Coco Chanel. The fashion designer Coco revolutionized deeply Parisian fashion and the world’s fashion.

In 1947 Christian Dior present his “New Look” delighting female customers with its post-war look style characterized by full skirts and majestic corsets .

But in 1960 there was a new change of course, and to the New Look of Dior was favored a more casual style, like the one seen in London.

In 1966, Yves Saint Laurent brought again Paris in the spotlight with her prêt-à-porter (“ready to wear”) line that made fashion accessible to the masses.

In fact, although Paco Rabanne and Pierre Cardin fashion pushed into the future, creating bold shapes, they always had to remain under the shadow of YSL, which was with no doubt the king of the second half of the century.

YSL pioneered the tuxedo suit for women and seduced everyone with his androgynous and chic style.

Since 1960 Paris competes with London, New York, Milan and Tokyo for the title of fashion capital, and each year attracts millions of fashion gurus, designers and fashion lovers to its fashion weeks.

LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM - SEPTEMBER 10: French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent posing in front of his new shop in Bond Street on September 10, 1969 in London, United Kingdom. He is with two model friends Betty Catroux (left) and Loulou De La Falaise - It was the first ready-to-wear shop that the fashion designer had opened in London and he called it Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, as his first shop in Paris. (Photo by Keystone-France/Gamma-Keystone via Getty Images)

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With this post I send my solidarity to the magnificent city that is Paris; because passing over why and how this massacre could have happened, I believe that no city, region, country or continent deserves anything like that. Violence and bullying are weapons that should be banned. It is not doing the war that we enforce. Everyone is free to express his opinion and to believe in what he wants, without harming other people or their ideas. In this world, it would take a little ‘more respect and less selfishness. We are all equal and all different. We are brothers with different ideas, but not for this we have to hate each other. We do us call Homo sapiens sapiens, to distinguish ourselves from the evolutionary branch of all other animals, but sometimes it seems that we stopped at a stage lower than the other, which at least are able to live peacefully among individuals of the same species …

epa05025887 A girl holds a peace sign with the Eiffel Tower as hundreds of people gathered in front of the French Consulate during a vigil for the victims of the deadly Paris attacks, in Los Angeles, California, USA, 14 November 2015. At least 129 people have been killed in a series of attacks in Paris on 13 November, according to French officials. EPA/MIKE NELSON

Sincerely,

Chiara C.

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2 Responses
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